The caravan site at Crescent Head is yards from the beach, and after asking for a good spot at reception I am lucky enough to be able to view the waves breaking on the point from my pillow.
My first order of business here is to repair all the dings in my board from the Lennox Head session. It is beginning to look like a patchwork quilt!
I am undeterred however and making sure to put my booties on to protect my existing cuts and hopefully prevent any more I launch myself off the rocks here just after the sun comes up.
There is everything from five year old groms wearing helmets to protect them from the rocks who are being pushed into waves by their dad (and I have to say then tearing it up!) to a host of guys in their sixties on their longboards.
The waves were at least shoulder high and probably bigger on the sets. the water was so clear you could see each of the rocks you were surfing over which was a little unnerving but I didn’t let it put me off.
It was an epic session and I caught loads of rides to remember with this being the best shot of the day.
I love this picture but I assure you that I could justifiably have chosen many, many others.
However a bit of turbo swimming followed by a nervous paddle back out with the leash in my teeth means that thankfully I don’t add any scars to the collection that I have amassed on me or my board to date.