There is an enormous swell on the way but we thought we would sneak a mellow session in before it arrived. The wind was on the waves but as the sets rolled through it cleaned up.

The whole posse in the water got taken out by one set which suggested the swell has arrived.

The wave is a right and I finally bagged a few on my forehand including one delightful ride which went on so long everybody thought I was surfing back to our island. Loads of fun before getting out under a gorgeous sunset. Great end to a great day.




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