The surfers on the island have been split into two groups and mine consists of a Chilean guy called Jo, an Australian girl called Andrea, three Germans called Carla, Nico and Lucas as well as my good self.

After breakfast we have so much fun at this break. Despite my painful derriere I am on fire and tear down the line all morning.

I had forgotten how close to the equator we are and got a tad scorched in the morning sun. The left side of my face is a tad raw and I will look more like Casper the friendly ghost for the next couple of days as a consequence due to all the zinc I will now have to wear!

I don’t mind though because I caught so many great waves.




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