Hikkaduwa-Gal3There are some great waves available at this spot, which is the break in sight of all the guest houses and hotels here in Hikkaduwa, and it is often busy as a consequence.

The howling winds that ruined everything yesterday had dropped leaving perfect glassy lines approaching the shore, so I didn’t look out of my bedroom window for long before deciding to get out of bed.

DCIM100GOPROIt was still only a short time after dawn and I paddled out just as the sun was rising over the palm trees along the shore behind me, excited to be bagging a new break for the scrapbook.

There were only a handful of surfers out and it wasn’t long before I joined them in the line up, even enjoying a dry hair paddle out.

DCIM100GOPROThe set waves were still pumping but there were long lulls between them, which resulted in everybody being back on the peak by the time the next set would arrive.

It also allowed for a few chats with the surfers in the water from all over the world, but after two dry days and being conscious that the days left on my tour are numbered I just wanted to get stuck into the surf.

DCIM100GOPROThere is a left hand break off the reef but I spent my session having so much fun in the rights.

You can see how smooth the water was in this picture from the session. It made for easy take offs and a playful wall to charge along. I had caught loads before most of the other surfers in town were even out of bed.

WP_20131119_002However on what turned out to be my last wave I was having so much fun that I surfed right into the shallow water and then got absolutely slammed onto the reef.

You can see the results of this experience here, and because I wasn’t wearing my helmet I am just considering myself lucky that it wasn’t my head that got smashed against the reef. (Earlier comments about the reefs here not being dangerous are summarily withdrawn!)

Some of the scrapes are quite deep, but none are life threatening even if they will keep me out of the water for a day or two. If you think they look painful try to imagine what it was like having lime juice rubbed into them by the locals after I had limped my way back to the shore. Owwwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!

Share

Comments

comments

Leave a Reply

css.php