After getting cut so badly at Lennox Head there is no way I am going back in on that day so I drive all the way south to another point Neil and I had looked at on our way north towards Brisbane.
The caravan site at Crescent Head is yards from the beach, and after asking for a good spot at reception I am lucky enough to be able to view the waves breaking on the point from my pillow.
My first order of business here is to repair all the dings in my board from the Lennox Head session. It is beginning to look like a patchwork quilt!
I am undeterred however and making sure to put my booties on to protect my existing cuts and hopefully prevent any more I launch myself off the rocks here just after the sun comes up.
Apart from one bloke who has clearly got out of bed the wrong side today, everybody is really cool in the lineup and there is the full spectrum of surfers out on their boards.
There is everything from five year old groms wearing helmets to protect them from the rocks who are being pushed into waves by their dad (and I have to say then tearing it up!) to a host of guys in their sixties on their longboards.
The waves were at least shoulder high and probably bigger on the sets. the water was so clear you could see each of the rocks you were surfing over which was a little unnerving but I didn’t let it put me off.
It was an epic session and I caught loads of rides to remember with this being the best shot of the day.
I love this picture but I assure you that I could justifiably have chosen many, many others.
The only downside here was when my leash gets ripped off my leg in one wipeout sending the board careering towards the shore which is only made up of rocks once more.
However a bit of turbo swimming followed by a nervous paddle back out with the leash in my teeth means that thankfully I don’t add any scars to the collection that I have amassed on me or my board to date.
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