Manhattan Beach is where Dale Velzy first walked down his board to stand on the front ‘Hanging Ten’ toes over the nose of his board in 1950. It is a beach I have to surf. After checking out of the hostel and sorting more dull phone problems I drive down there pleased to note the wind has dropped off massively since the day before. The sun is out and I am back in shorts although I may be the only one.
As you can see waves are breaking on both sides of the pier but I opt for the left hand side, and the waves which should be peeling right there. It is my forehand side i.e I am facing the wave rather than looking over my shoulder at it going the other way. However despite there being no wind it is really lumpy on the water and I am upended by the choppy water several times including one where the board flies out from under me with a fin slamming rather painfully into my foot. It almost feels like there are several swells arriving at once and they cant decide who is boss.
I still catch enough waves to keep me happy and they are actually quite big when they roll through as this picture of the day should demonstrate. You can just see the pier in the background where groups of people would stop to see if I got mangled by the sea or eaten by any of the angry fish. I even got a few whoops and a round of applause after one wave so I’m doing my best to put on a show for them. I cant manage a nose ride because my board is the wrong shape for that and the fins are too small, but I bag a some lovel rides and get out with a big grin on my face.
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