Around The World In 80 Waves

Del Mar is probably most famous for it’s racetrack, where the turf meets the surf. However I have come here looking for a different kind of action. The swell has dropped since yesterday so I head to reef break at the bottom of 15th Street, which is supposed to be the most consistent break of the waves available here.

As you can see there was only one guy out in the water and I didn’t think twice before getting suited up and jumping in. However I haven’t been in the water more than ten minutes and then about 50 school kids start paddling out simultaneously. What had been and exclusive break is all of a sudden mobbed.

I chat to the surfer next to me called Steve, who it turns out is a parent to one of the grommets. It is actually their P.E. lesson. The school doesnt provide tuition but the parents take it in turn to car pool the kids to the beach and keep an eye on them in the water. Given today’s waves Steve wasn’t too upset he had to ‘supervise’ them and it is only right that he paddles out on his own board so he can do that better, whilst perhaps catching a wave or two himself.

I catch loads of rights which is surprising because this is supposed to be a left. That is until my final wave of the day, which went on for ages on my backhand side. I rode the head high wave from all the way out past the breaking waves into ankle deep water on the shore. It was awesome, check it out. 

Given a two second interval on the camera I reckon that was a 30 seond plus ride. Outstanding and definitely the best left of the trip so far.

😎