Around The World In 80 Waves

I am a up early and straight over the road to check out the surf at Playa Zicatela, but am a bit gutted because the beach break supposedly as good as Pipeline is breaking just off the beach and is 4 feet high along the whole length of the wave, all of which is closing out and crashing simultaneously on to the shore. Boogie Boarders are getting 1 second barrels but nobody else is.

I am feeling a bit poorly today so dont rush in, instead taking a stroll down the length of the beach to ‘The Point’ which is the break off the rocks at the south end of the bay, enjoying all the bikinis on display. While there was a tiny peeling section there, my board was about 2 miles away in the hotel and I couldnt face another walk back, because it is roasting hot and the walk has already wiped me out, so I go to my room for a nap.

Later in the day I decide I must get in the water regardless of the quality because of the location. I have already procrastinated longer than I should but then am delayed further by bumping into Lisa and Steve (pictured here the following day at The Point) two surfers from the San Francisco Bay area of California who I had met and had a couple of drinks with in The Mirador Hotel in Acapulco. Steve had spotted me strolling down to the beach, hollering “They will let you Brits in anywhere” to get my attention. I stop for a brief chat but the sun is almost at the horizon already so have to dash off and then paddle out into the waves which haven’t really improved.

On this I can’t be specific though because it was effectively night surfing using only the light of the full moon by the time I got in the water. I did catch a few quick drops, then make the bottom turn before getting hammered by the waves. Such stealth surfing is not easy at the best of times, but it was almost impossible here. However I did catch a few waves before realising I was effectively sharkbait, and clearly visible to them under the full moon during feeding time. Looking around I cant even tell if anybody else is out so take the sensible option of paddling in.

Not the best surf I have ever had, but thrilled to have bagged this internationally reknowned break on my trip.