Around The World In 80 Waves

Punta Roca is where the point break sequences for Big Wednesday were filmed and I simply had to surf the break where such great lines as ‘I said he aint a hodad squidlips, this is Matt Johnson and he needs to borrow your board’ and ‘That is Matt Johnson, THAT IS Matt Johnson!’ were coined. If you are not familiar with the film, it will make more sense if you watch this clip. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xgBnGQhAUI

It is a perfect right hand point break and the scenes from the  movie have had me salivating for years, dreaming about such a perfect setup to enjoy. Without doubt a major contributory factor in me taking this trip. The area is somewhat more developed than when the scenes were filmed in 1976, and I was able to stike a deal with a restaurant overlooking the break that they would look after my car and I would enjoy a big feast after my session. 

I have been wanting to try to get some forward facing shots on the camera for a while, and because this wave is so predictable I thought it would be the ideal opportunity to try it out.

I attached it to the board the other way around which is just as easy using the mounts I have attached to my stick and paddled out into the glorious conditions you see here.

I was able to get some fantastic pictures of other people, but not the shot I wanted of the wave walling up in front of me as I charged down the line, which all surfers would recognise instantly. I think this is because the mount on my board is pointing directly forward and the board usually travels in the direction which is 45 degrees from the wave face, which results in a lot of shots of air pointing vaguely in the direction of the shore.

This meant that each of the peachy waves I had here, and it was a lot, will just be memories for me I’m afraid. The waves is so mellow and just goes on and on and on and on and on. Really chuffed to have bagged this break on my travels and even if I cant prove it I know I was grinning from ear to ear!