Around The World In 80 Waves

I am awake early and after enjoying a lovely coffee that had already been brewed for me by my host Dave, I stroll barefoot down the hill to the beach.

The sun is coming up and because it is the morning after the big night of the Easter weekend the beach is very quite at 6.30am. I paddle out on the peak directly in front of the path, where there is only one guy in the water. 

I had a brilliant session catching loads of rides in the early morning sun.

I caught more waves than I could remember taking them left and right having a really fun time in the water, whooping and hollering the whole time as I charged down the line.

There are so many pictures from his morning’s session it is hard to identify the best one.

However I have added a selection to give you an idea of what it was like.

There were loads of little fish in the water, which I was trying to shoo away, conscious that the food chain would be following them, but didn’t see anything which might worry me.

Woooo-hooo wave 46 and there is going to be swell here all week.

Looking forward to an afternoon session already.