Later in my stay at Surfers Paradise I discovered that there had been a photographer taking pictures from the cliffs during my scary session at the point, who got this shot of the line up.
I am the furthest left in this picture and like everybody else I am keeping one eye on the wave trying to decide whether to go for it, whether to get as far out of its way as possible, or just hoping that it doesn’t crash down before it gets to you, all the while wondering if the one behind is even bigger.
Try to factor into your thinking that this is the bathymetry that the wave is breaking over, barely over and not at all over at times.
Also that the above shot was taken from an elevated position, so it loses some of the scale of the wave.
Trust me when I say you lost nothing of the scale from sea level. I told you it was huge!
Without doubt the biggest and scariest waves I have been out in so far on this trip.
Gnarly!!! Don’t forget, bigger waves break in deeper water – they can be safer than the tiddlers. Sometimes…
(sounds like a session I had in the Maldives – an hour of paddling for the horizon followed by a single double overhead screamer to escape back to the beach before it went dark)
On waves this size. Dropping in trying to figure the route though the boils isn’t much fun!
A Brazilian guy in the water said, “death is always close today!” You can imagine that settling my nerves no end!
Oh Jesus. I literally almost let go just looking at the pic.
Glad you made it. Excellent work AB…