Around The World In 80 Waves

Sadly it is time to move off on my own again but after saying my goodbyes I can’t resist back tracking to Lennox Head to see if the point there is working. I am delighted to see some great waves peeling along the headland when I get there.

It is still early in the morning when I arrive and there was only a dozen out in the water so I cant wait to get my wetsuit on and join them.

My surf guide tells me that “If the locals don’t kill you here, the rocks will” so I am a little hesitant as I walk down the cliff towards one of Australia’s classic point breaks.

I take my time getting into the water and you can see how pleased I am to have got out past the waves with dry hair after launching myself off the rocks on my way into the water.

After a slow start I had a brilliant session here and caught a load of the head high waves, charging down the point skirting in front of the rocky shore. The locals were actually friendly too!

I got some great waves and this is the second best shot of the day. Sadly the best one of the day was epic but in my haste to distil the thousands of snaps that my Gopro had taken I deleted it in error. Doh!

After a few hours I felt like I had caught enough and decided to get out, and at this point I will refer you back to what the guidebook said about the rocks here.

The current is sweeping down the headland and despite being as careful as I could on the way in I managed to make a right hash of this.

As you can see here I am about to be washed into the rocks.

I got absolutely hammered here. The rocks and the barnacles on them shredded my feet and shins and also put a ton of scratches on my board on way back in. After limping back to the van board I also discover that I have snapped one of my fins off and have put another two holes in my board!

You can’t see the soles of my feet in this picture which were cut worse than anywhere else and I felt like I had been attacked with a cheese grater. Not at all pleasant even walking for a day or so after this!

There was however some solace to see a pod of dolphins chasing and corralling a shoal of fish as I patched up at the top of the headland.