In some kind of preemptive ‘hair of the dog that bit me’ effort I have been drinking Great White beer for the last few days, which I am hoping will be enough innoculation against the Men in Grey Suits. I set off driving south with my new learn to speak Spanish CDs blaring on stereo. I have a month to progress beyond the current extent of my Spanish – ‘cerveza por favor’
Kevin’s local break is Ocean Beach where the city meets the sea. While I decide how keen I am on being shark bait I watch the locals catching some awesome rides.
I have to get in and am encouraged by the dolphins or porpoises which are hanging around just outside of the break. They know much better than I do what is under the water so if they are comfortable then so am I (he lied!) It is quite a tough paddle out and I really notice my winter suit compared with surfing in shorts in Hawaii, but I get out despite having made the schoolboy error of not changing the wax on my board from warm to tropical water to the cold water wax needed here. However the wrong wax hardens in the water and the top of my board is like greased glass. I really have a nightmare and the thought of the angry fish that are about is doing nothing to settle my mind. Loads of pelicans fly through the break inches above the wave which is very mellow, unlike my surfing. I am slipping off the board every time I take off and then am getting whumped by the masive surf. Time and time again it happens until I have had enough.
It is my first blank of the trip and I get out when the sun goes down conscious that it is when the fish are feeding. The gorgeous sunset isn’t enough to lift my spirits so after buying some cold water wax I head for the British pub a little further down the coast. Five pints of Boddingtons later all is good with the world.
Leave a Reply
Connect With Me
