I opt for this very friendly looking wave. which is just down the coast from Mavericks, which you just might be able to make out breaking at the bottom of the headland in the distance. It is gloriously sunny, uncrowded and the waves are about chest high and super clean because there is no wind. I re-wax my board with the more suitable cold water wax and paddle out.
I have attached the camera again and this is probably the shot of the day. I am quickly on my game today and bag loads chatting to the locals who are very friendly.
I had to post this picture becasue the look on my face is worth a thousand words. I honestly cant tell you what was coming my way but I’m guessing it must have been the set of the day. Very funny!
I head south after a great session thinking that I couldn’t be happier until I discover that the little green surf machine has heated seats and enjoy a toasty derriere on the way south down highway 1.
great photo! Reminds me of me 4 years ago! proper belly laugh!