The swell has picked up and we made an early start in the boat over to this break.
Diving over the side I was expecting amazing things from this perfect left breaking wave.
My enthusiasm was somewhat dampened at first however when my surfboard’s leash got ripped off my leg and I had to swim over the reef and nearly to the shore before I caught up with it. One marathon paddle back out to the line up later the same thing happened on my next wave. Not happy!
However after another flogging on the inside and long paddle back I decided to charge the break and at least go down swinging. It seemed to do the trick and I caught a hat full of perfect lefts.
The long paddles had somewhat worn me out so after two and a half hours in the water I decided to catch one more before getting out. It was another great ride but when wiping out I got slammed on the reef leaving a considerable chunk of my shin attached to it. It will be my first Mentawai tattoo! There was quite a bit of claret but I cleaned it up with a chunk of fresh lime so I am good to go back for more of the same thing this afternoon.
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