I get up before dawn and return to Steamers lane hoping to get that perfect hour after the fish have stopped feeding but before the crowds turn up. The sunrise I’m greeted by is awesome.
I wait until at least one local gets in to make sure I am not the only shark bait. It is head high and maybe a bit more. I watch this guy get a couple as I get suited up.
It all starts very well with me catching a huge one taking the drop but leaning too much into my bottom turn so arcing straight off the back of the wave. However I have been spending far too much time dwelling on the angry fish and have been forgetting that I am surfing the Pacific and Mother Nature always has the last laugh. As you can see here I have become aware that a monster set is heading my way and I’m scratching for the horizon trying to get over the top of it. Putting it bluntly I fail. The first wave of the set knocks me off my board. The second lands on me knocking the air out of me and pushes me to the bottom.
I am aware it is the bottom because I bounce uncontrollably off several rocks that are the size of me and with no air in me I am having a hard time making it back to the surface. I keep my cool and do get there but then have to take a couple more pummelings from the next two waves before I can get my hands on my board which is when this picture was taken. You will notice that the cliffs which were some way away are now directly behind me and there are more waves on the way, so I am literally between the preverbial rcok and a hard place. A couple of sphincter clenching minutes later I have managed to get myself into a safe spot so I can catch my breath.
I have been really spooked by the experience so go in and get changed. I sit on one of the benches at the top of the cliffs trying to figure out what I did wrong and only spot what I have been sitting on when I get up. Hmmmmm!
It may be time to move on after all!
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