Around The World In 80 Waves

I get up early to beat the crowds and head to the beach listening to the local Santa Barbara rock station The Surf 106.3 which seems perfect for the day’s adventures. I opt for this break. As I paddle out there are just two girls in the water, called Sarah and Morgan who are studying at University College of Santa Barbara. We soon get chatting and it gets me thinking of my good friend Sarah Morgan back home. (Hi!) You will also note the results of my dry-hair-paddle out because the waves are weak, small and infrequent.

However the place reminds me of the point the guys are surfing in Big Wednesday, and I love surfing here. It even comes complete with it’s own grafitti’d shack on the beach. The beach is located is next to the University’s primary residential area where all the fraternity houses and such like are located. A cormorant type of diving bird pops up next to me giving me the usual fright and making sure that the chain remains unbroken. I swear they are all in on it.

Despite the naffness of the swell, there is not a breath of wind, so the waist high waves which are maybe a bit more on the sets are super super clean. I’ve got the GoPro with me and this is probably the shot of the day. I catch loads and was actually spoilt for choice on which picture to post for this break.

This one of me taken as I belly board in at the end of the session will give you some idea of how stoked I was. It was a really fun session and I say goodbye to the girls and get out of the water just as the crowds turn up.