Around The World In 80 Waves

Also known as Ventura County Line. I had arrived here the night before, but the sun was almost down as I turned up and it was looking quite busy, so I checked into a hotel and waited for the morning. As you can see an early start saw only a couple of people out at high tide when I returned.

I caught loads today and did take the camera with me after regretting yesterday’s omission. This was the shot of the day, and you can see the wave is breaking just above my paunch even though I am half way up the face.

Again I have loads of photos, and too many to choose from so here is wave of the day from start to finish shot at two second intervals, beginning with an amusing comedy shot of my face as I struggle to turn the board around after the lady behind me insisted that I go for it and drop in at the last second before the wave arrived: