Around The World In 80 Waves

Mexico has at times been very hard work and there hadn’t been any real waves for me here so far. As a consequence I can’t tell you how pleased I was when I pulled off the road at Nexpa to find just about the most perfect lefthand point break I have ever seen.

I was in my boart shorts in about 10 seconds, had the board off the roof about a minute later and started paddling out.

In the background of this picture to my right you can see the beachfront cabanas I later stayed in, and the wildlife over my shoulder to the left was pretty spectacular too.

There was a real cosmopolitan crowd in the warm water with male and female surfers from Canada, Holland, Italy, Australia, Mexico, Austria and the USA surfing the perfect overhead waves. I later discovered that every single one of them assumed I was a local when I paddled out due to the look I have been nurturing. (As Hannibal Smith used to say, ‘I love it when a plan comes together!’)

The surf had really picked up and I scored so many really long rides surfing on my backhand, snaking up and down the wave which curves into the bay, with this being the picture of the day. However but I kept thinking about my surf stricken goofy footed buddy Pete Griff who would have chewed his own arm off to have enjoyed this never-ending left hand wave.

The break was so predictable it was worth trying my hand with the GoPro’s video capability. This short wave was for you Pete. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1msaiGfrtg&feature=youtu.be) Hope your legs are getting better. I will show you the better footage when I get back. (It has taken 4 hours to upload this short clip!)