Around The World In 80 Waves

There have not been many waves which I have surfed twice on this trip, but because it is such a perfect right hand point break and I hadn’t really surfed that well the day before I had to go back for a second session. I’m so glad I did!

To protect the left hand side of my face which was still a little raw from the scorching it got the previous morning I waited until the afternoon allowing the other side to get cooked instead.

The waves are really big at the moment, and again I was a litle bit slow to get started.

I took a few more beatings in the inside section and had the fright of my life when scatching towards the horizon to try and get past one set. As I was about to start paddling up the face of the wave a huge ray with a four foot wingspan lept out of the water in front of me! I was more concerned with the several tonnes of water quickly moving my way so had no choice other than to keep paddling as fast as I could towards it.

Just as I was starting to get annoyed about my lack of waves a huge one set up beautifully for me. The waves are so fat at the moment it is hard to get in front of them, but after paddling like a man possessed I popped up, skipped forward and practically stamped on the front of my board to push it over the top. The picture above was taken with my GoPro, but there was also a professional photographer on the beach who got every second of this ride, as well as the others I caught soon afterwards because my confidence was up. Massive snaking rights, two of which I surfed from the very peak until I stepped off onto the sand in the shore. Rides nearly a minute long, all of which were so fast, just about outrunning the mountain of water chasing me.

Easily the best surf session of my trip so far. The photographer caught this picture of a very contented me racing back to see what my camera had captured. Also, very unusually for any surf trip, all the friends I have made here were on the beach and had seen each of the monsters I had caught.

Stoked doesn’t quite cover how happy I was feeling as I strolled back to the Surfers Inn. Try to think of me as happy as you have seen me and then square it. I was pactically bouncing I was so excited!

To top off a perfect day I made myself my favourite meal of bangers and mash with baked beans, washed down with an unhealthy amount of the local beer. I wish everyday could be this good.