I am seconds from the beach and grab my board first thing in the morning to go down there. It is still massively windy, but it doesn’t really matter because the surf is appallingly small. I almost feel guilty claiming this as one of my waves because I only actually surfed one wave and that was for two seconds at best. They are clean waves and the wind is offshore but if they were as big as a foot I would be amazed!
On the positive side I had met a bloke from Vancouver (there are Canadians everywhere in Central America) called Doren as I walked down for this epic session and after telling him about my journey the two of us have a laugh in the ‘surf’ and I am using that term as loosely as I can. Doren has work to do and I’m not sticking around for long so we get out, and I’m introduced to his wife Micheala and their two lovely kids as we walk back up the beach.
We arrange to meet up later and try another beach which should be more exposed to the swell on offer at the moment.
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