Around The World In 80 Waves

I got up at 5am this morning and took the car for a quick spin along the coast to Playa Hermosa, which is supposed to be the best break locally.

Although it was super clean it was just dumping on the shore in a Puerto Escondido fashion so I wasn’t tempted into the water there. Huge board snapping potential.

After a bit of a surf safari I returned to Jaco and decided to go into the beach break there where the locals were ripping it up.

There was a really friendly vibe in the water which was packed with North Americans from Canada and the USA, but I didn’t bother with the camera which meant I missed the opportunity for a shot of the biggest face plant of the trip so far after taking off and stacking on one of the bigger waves that break so quickly here. After that I was a tad reluctant to get in front of one, and was starting to get a bit peeved with the wind which had picked up and was causing so much chop on the water.

However I nailed my last ride of the day and the Ticos (as the Costa Ricans are proud to be called) were cheering me on down an epic ride down the line. I got out really stoked and may go for another dawnie here tomorrow for another slice of the action before moving on again.