Around The World In 80 Waves

The left at Pavones is simply epic.

You can actually ride it from the rocks at the point that you can see on the left of this picture.

From there you keep going past the river mouth which is just out of sight on the left. 

It doesn’t stop there however because you keep going to the mini-point where the picture above was taken.

Indeed turning my camera around at that location you can then see the bay in the distance where you can keep riding all the way into the shore. If you think I am joking check out this video of Robbie Naish doing it on a Stand Up Paddle board (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9rI76MuaXI) He needed several cameras just to catch it all on film and tracked his distance travelled using GPS! I haven’t bagged anything in that league yet, but still trying.

You are never too far from the shoreline all along this ride, and it is covered in rocks. At low tide they are a nightmare to walk across, because they stretch right out to sea and you slip, stub you toes, upend yourself, etc across several hundred metres of them. 

I have had a few sessions in the water here already enjoying the smaller surf before the big swell arrives. I was barefoot for the first of them but enjoyed the benefits of my booties after that. However they didn’t stop me going over the falls on one wave in the morning when I wasn’t wearing a rash vest and I scraped across more than one of the boulders under the water with my back which was a tad worrying.

I’m not complaining though, and only wish this wave was a right. As lefts go I can’t imagine much better, and have been having fun whizzing down the line looking over my shoulder as I go. More to come from his break too as the waves build through the rest of the week.

Wave 50 means I have reached my half century. Good batting!