Around The World In 80 Waves

It has been raining all day and it is pretty grim on the North shore so I decide to head over to the drier west side of the island to catch a great sunset and hopefully get a wave. Everybody said it would be flat but I’m game to have a look anyway. Makaha was Oahu’s first big wave spot as surfers moved out of Honolulu after the local waves got destroyed or change by development of the coast in the middle of the last century. They were charging twenty footers here long before Greg Noll charged at Waimea or Gerry Lopez owned Pipeline. It is a break I have wanted to surf since hearing Bear talk about surfing twenty foot waves alone there in Big Wednesday, which is my favourite film of all time. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hFH3q5bz1Q) It was written and directed by avid surfer John Milius who also wrote the screenplay for Apocalypse Now which is the reason for surfing appearing in that film too. (“This is Charlie’s break sir.” “Charlie don’t surf son”)

Now thankfully it isn’t twenty feet but is about waist high, super clean, there is no wind, the sun is shining and I have the break to myself. I cant believe my luck. I paddle out and straight away notice the rocks which are everywhere, but don’t dwell too much on it because every beach is like that here. I catch loads of fun little rides at a break which is quite possible the prettiest place I have ever surfed watched by tourists sunbathing on the beach. There is a full rainbow over the beach as I look back and scenery beyond that is stunning too.

Eventually a yound local bodyboarder comes out and tells me I am going to surf into the reef. Salient advice because the as I paddle for the next wave the reef sucks dry and I am faced with a massice rock in front of me with nowhere to go. I try to grab my board and pull it back but only succeed in getting my hand trapped between the advancing board and the rock splitting open an inch long deep cut on the back of my hand. Owwwwwww!! It bleeds quite profusely so rather than sit there effectively chumming the water and attracting the men in grey suits I get out with blood dripping off my arm. However it looks worse than it is, and thankfully my sister armed me with a quality first aid kit so I can just tape it up without having to attempt DIY stitches.

Regardless I head back to the hostel fully stoked to have bagged this legendary break and I am little proud of the scar I will have to prove it. I get back to find our chalet is where to find the party this evening, which is a great way to end my time on the North Shore. Sad to have to say goodbye to so many friends already, particularly the girls who have been such great company: