Ever since my first surf back in North Wales in the early eighties I have always wondered about Burleigh Heads because its name was right under my nose whilst paddling out.
As a consequence I have been really looking forward to getting in the water at one of Australia’s classic right hand point breaks.
Sadly on the day I am in town there is not much swell about and even though the waves are breaking along the rocks lining the shore there are not many people in the water, which in this surf mad part of the world means there were probably better waves on offer elsewhere.
However as soon as I get in the water I am not easily getting out past the broken waves and amazed by the sweeping current which sends me off down the coast towards Surfer’s Paradise.
One quick chat with the lifeguard later and I am aware that apparently it is nothing compared to normal. He was really helpful though and gave me a few pointers to get out which I did with relative ease after walking back around the bay to the rocky point.
The waves were far bigger and more powerful than I expected once there and I bagged a few peaches, charging down the line along the coast.
A lifetime’s surf career of expectation wasn’t disappointed in the end and I was on my game too, trying not to look too much of a kook to the people watching from the shore.
The waves were actually so powerful that in one wipeout my leash actually got ripped off my leg also sending my board careering off towards the rocks at the same time.
I had to give it my best Ian Thorpe impression to get to my board before it got damaged, only just managing to do so. However that left me on the inside section again and having already spent half an hour literally paddling against the tide I didn’t have too much appetite for more and caught the next one in.
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