Around The World In 80 Waves

Get up early and head for Haleiwa on my way to Honolulu. The peak is already crowded and the standard is high so I can see I am going to have to bring my ‘A’ game. It is head high and peeling beautifully.
I get straight out and keep finding quiet spots so I can catch one only to turn around a find myself in the middle of a mob each time a wave comes through. Thee are plenty of good surfers in the water and I am not getting a look in. I paddle out so I get a clear run at a few but am too far out to catch them, so paddle in only to find myself right in the impact zone and am then washed all the way in to the shore. I’m then stuck inside learning very quickly how to duck dive my new board under the waves but above the rocks until I eventually get through the peak. I’m dying to catch one because they are walling up and looking like a sweet ride in the sunshine.
The reality is that I can’t even get a look in and am being snaked by teenage girls (not a euphemism) who keep pinching every ride I line up.
I have to get to Honolulu to return the car so reluctantly paddle in catching a rubbish broken wave on the way in. I get up and do a few turns if only not to blank here, but even if it does complete my personal triple crown it is tad lacklustre and wholly unsatisfying.
Never mind there will be more waves on the horizon and I have already hit 10% of my objective for the year.