The lady who runs the hostel recommends this break if I am a good surfer. After Haleiwa on Oahu I am not so sure that I am and it takes me a good while looking at the sets coming through before I man up and decide to paddle out. The break is just down the coast from the infamous break at Peahi known as ‘Jaws’ which you can see being surfed here. I don’t know who is the bigger maniac in this photo, the surfer or the helicopter pilot? Keep in mind that the chopper is in the foreground and you get some idea of how big the waves can be here. It wasn’t that big but the waves were definitely the biggest I have been in so far on this trip. I would say double overhead on the sets, but I always get accused of hyperbole.
Maui is obviously aware that this is going to be my only session on the island so pulls out all the aces. Massive peeling waves, several turtles, a seal and a double rainbow are all provided so as not to be outdone by Oahu. The waves are very chunky and everyone in the water is lining up along the bottom of the cliffs where the wave breaks first, which is a bit keen for me on my first time in the water here. As usual there are rocks about but we are so far out to sea that I’m not too concerned about it.
After watching the waves roll through for a few sets I decide to go for it. Thrashing away to build up enough speed to get in front of one of these monsters I’m giving it everything I’ve got. As soon as the board starts to slip down the face I’m up straight away and tucking low to deal with the speed I build on the drop and the massive bottom turn I’m carving out to the right. Pumping the board to build up speed I’m charging down the line, all the while oh so conscious of the monster chasing me to the shore. I get out in front then stall to tease the wave it can catch me but then take another huge drop and am off again riding it all the way to the reef near the shore where I decide bailing off the back is my best option. Now that was a Hawaiian wave!! I’m almost sparking I’m so stoked and paddle back out for more.
I chat with a local guy called justin who is completely dialled in to this break and is shredding everything coming through. He is a really friendly guy, who tells me about this holiday villa he has built which I can stay in. I have a gift for sourcing Gucci surf residences, so when we chat in the car park later he gives me a few cards and am not surprised that his place looks like another gem. If only I had the time to take advantage of it. I can definitely recommend it to anybody else though. Check it out:
After a handful of monsters I get out because it is getting dark. I score some beers called ‘Big Wave’ that are brewed by the local Aloha brewery on the way back to the hostel and bounce my way through every conversation that evening because I am so happy. A good day.
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