As soon as the fast boat had made the journey from Sumatra to our island we had breakfast and were then taken straight out to this break whose name translates to the sleeping wave.

Things were a bit manic as everybody piled over the side and was desperate to bag their first wave here.

I did bag one that somebody blatantly dropped in on me and then spent most of the rest of the session going over the falls. Twice landing butt first on my fins nearly creating a new crack in my backside! That I didn’t damage the fins was a miracle.

I got out tired and more than a tad tender, and then spent most of the rest of the day kipping in my little bungalow.

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