From Snapper Rocks I travel up the hill in the van to the Captain Cook Monument on the headland, which also marks the border between New South Wales and Queensland. Here I am with one foot in each state.
Durunbah is the break south of the headland known as Point Danger and I can see that there are two breaks in the bay.
One is mobbed down at the rock jetty at the south end where the surfers are desperately trying to get some tube time as the wave jacks up with the reflected swell.
I opt for the Point Danger end of the bay which is much quieter and where I can still see loads of tempting rides on offer. I think it may also be possible to surf from one state into another here.
(You can see the Captain Cook monument on the cliff behind me here.)
It is about chest high on the sets but the paddle out is so easy you can nearly walk out into the line up, saving your arms in the process.
I realise it is warm enough to once more be surfing in shorts without a wetsuit and have a great session in the sunshine.
I haven’t caught many lefts lately but am having so much fun catching these waves off the point and seeing how long I can ride them for on my backhand.
It is still only lunchtime but already having enjoyed my second session of the day I decide to catch one more and then go in. I hate paddling in at the end of a surf. It never feels right to do so.
It is a great ride but I take it that little bit too far in getting caught right in the shore dump. You can see the wave taking the board and my legs out from under me here, the result of which was going over the falls and then landing very heavily on the rail of my board with my hip.
I have a dead leg and blood is dripping off my arm so I think it just as well that I was getting out anyway.
I limp up the beach and back to the van where I fix the hole in me, but am gutted to discover I have put another one in my board. I only had it fixed yesterday!!!!
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